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If the past few years of brunette hair trends have taught us anything, it's that brown doesn't have to mean boring. Espresso brown is a particularly delicious example: deep and rich enough to feel sultry, but with subtle golden warmth that keeps it from looking flat or overly severe. It's the kind of brunette that can look almost impossibly glossy in one light and reveal a soft melange of tones in another.
“We're finally embracing warmth again and realizing just how flattering it can be,” says Nataly Maldonado, colorist and owner of Velvet Palm Studio in Lake Worth Beach, Florida. “For so long, the goal was to eliminate every bit of warmth from hair, but warmth is what gives brown hair its richness, movement, and that beautiful, reflective touch.”
Unlike a nearly black brunette or a cool, ashy brown, espresso has enough golden richness to make dark hair look dimensional and incredibly polished without an obviously highlighted look. The result is a brunette that feels natural, expensive-looking, and shiny as hell.
It can be a relatively easy adjustment for a natural brunette, but getting the shade right can involve considerably more color chemistry if you're not starting from an already brown jumping-off point, like blonde, gray, or even dyed-black. Here's what colorists want you to know before placing your order—or, rather, making an appointment—for espresso.
What makes espresso brown different from other brunette hair colors
Maldonado describes espresso brown as “a deep, dimensional brunette with a golden reflect.” That combination gives the shade its signature richness while keeping it from looking overly harsh; and because it’s so dark, the golden aspect serves more as an undertone than an obvious cast. This also creates contrast without making your complexion look washed-out, she says.
Espresso brown has the depth you'd expect from a very dark brunette, but it isn't trying to erase every trace of warmth. “It's the type of shade that has people questioning how you were born with such an impossibly beautiful shade of brunette,” Maldonado says. “You weren't—but it looks like you were.”
Quia Querisma, a colorist in Dallas, similarly calls espresso brown “a very rich and velvety brown with a slightly golden reflection in sunlight.” The color is versatile enough to work across a wide range of complexions, she says, although an experienced colorist can determine whether a warmer or cooler version will best complement your skin tone.
Temur Hamilton, a colorist and the owner of Temur in New York City, emphasizes another reason the shade feels particularly alluring: It has “beautiful dimension that comes from blending slightly lighter and darker shades.” Espresso brown doesn’t read as one solid block of color. For natural brunettes, that makes it an especially good way to change your look without making a dramatic transformation. “It looks natural, but elevated,” he says.
How to get espresso brown hair
How your colorist gets you to espresso depends enormously on where you're starting. Simply layering a brown dye over your existing color isn't necessarily going to produce the result you're envisioning.
If you already have dark brown hair, you have the easiest path, of course. Hamilton says darker brunettes can often transition to espresso brown with the subtlest of highlights or lowlights. Maldonado says a natural brunette (which hair colorists will recognize as around a level 5 to 6) may need nothing more than a deep brown gloss with golden undertones as a way to enhance the existing color while adding shine and vibrancy.
“Brunettes with virgin hair may have the luxury of a single-process step,” Querisma says, explaining that it could be as simple as applying the appropriate shade. However, if your hair is naturally nearly black, Querisma says it may need to be gently lightened with a clear, permanent dye (combined with a level 20 developer) before the final espresso tone is deposited. The exact approach depends on the hair and desired result.
If your hair is dyed black, then it’s a completely different situation. Typically, color can’t simply lift previously deposited dye, so Hamilton says the black dye may need to be lifted before an espresso brown demipermanent or permanent gloss is applied. “Then I would apply demipermanent or permanent gloss in the espresso brown shade,” he says. “Depending on the result, I may add in subtle highlights for more dimension.”
If you're blonde or gray, this is where the process gets considerably more involved. Both Maldonado and Querisma stress the importance of putting warmth back into hair that has been heavily lightened before applying the final brown shade. Maldonado explains that blonde hair needs to be “prefilled with gold and/or copper pigments,” essentially rebuilding the underlying richness that was removed during the blonding process, and “the opposite of what we do with almost-black hair.” Without that step, she says, an attempt at espresso brown can look “dull, hollow, or muddy.” Prefilling is also particularly important for longevity because previously lightened hair is more porous and therefore more prone to losing pigment.
Querisma describes this as a corrective color or “tint back,” creating the tonal foundation that allows the espresso shade to adhere properly. “Tones of gold, copper, and red must be formulated and applied to the hair before applying the final brown,” she says. Hamilton takes a similar two-step approach, first creating a rich, warm base before applying the deep espresso brown and finishing with a glaze or gloss.
How to maintain espresso brown hair
The good news is that espresso brown can be relatively low-maintenance, particularly if you're already a brunette. Maldonado recommends a gloss or color refresh approximately every six to eight weeks, depending on your starting color, porosity, and how well your hair holds pigment, something your colorist will be able to determine. Querisma says some brunettes can even go up to 12 weeks without a refresh.
If you're transitioning from blonde or gray, expect more upkeep than a natural brunette would need. “Even with great care, lighter roots will start to appear in about six weeks, so clients will need to schedule regular salon visits if they want to maintain the shade,” Hamilton says.
Speaking of great care, your at-home routine matters quite a bit. Color-safe shampoo and conditioner can help preserve the richness, while washing less frequently can reduce the amount of pigment lost during cleansing. We’re fans of the Nexxus Color Assure Vibrancy Shampoo and Conditioner because they not only help extend how long color looks fresh, but also address the damage coloring can cause. Hamilton also recommends incorporating bond-repair products into your routine, particularly for clients whose hair was previously lightened. We’ve been raving about the Ouai Bond Repair Balm ever since it won an Allure Best of Beauty Award for making hair look softer and healthier.
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Nexxus
Color Assure Shampoo and Conditioner
Ulta Beauty (Shampoo)
Ulta Beauty (Conditioner)
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Best Strengthening Hair Mask
Ouai Bond Repair Balm
Amazon
Heat is another potential color thief. Maldonado recommends turning down the temperature on your hot tools and in your shower. Those seemingly small changes can make a big difference in keeping espresso brown rich and glossy, she says.
Regular application of color-depositing conditioners and masks can also help maintain the shade between appointments. Maldonado likes the IGK Color Depositing Gloss Mask in Brown Bella for refreshing brunette tones and boosting shine. “It’s a great option between salon visits for keeping the hair looking shiny and vibrant,” she says. “Definitely check with your stylist before using a color-depositing product, however, especially if you have highlights or previously lightened hair.”
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IGK Hair
IGK Color Depositing Mask
Ulta Beauty
Espresso brown inspiration
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Photo: Getty ImagesMeet the experts
- Temur Hamilton is a colorist, hairstylist, and owner of Temur in New York City.
- Nataly Maldonado is a colorist and owner of the Velvet Palm Studio in Lake Worth Beach, Florida.
- Quia Querisma is a colorist and hairstylist in Dallas.
